12 Days in Albania: A Road Trip Through The South
Planning a road trip through Albania isn’t easy – especially if you have limited time. There’s just so much to see, both in the North and in the South, that it can be hard to narrow things down.
When my partner and I planned our trip, we had a total of 12 days (well, 11 if you don’t count the morning we left). We wanted to make the most of it, but also take it slow enough to enjoy our time.
Since we visited in May, spending a few days relaxing at the beach was definitely on our list.
As much as we love packing in as many stops as possible, we decided to focus on Southern Albania. That meant exploring gems like Gjirokaster, Ksamil, Vlora, and of course, the capital city of Tirana.
If you’re heading to Albania for 11 or 12 days, this is the exact itinerary we followed – and I hope it’ll make your own planning a whole lot easier.
But before we dive in, let’s talk about the best time to visit Albania and whether renting a car is worth it.
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Best Time to Visit Albania
The best time to visit Albania depends on what you want to do and see. If you’re heading for a beach holiday, the swimming season runs roughly from May to September.
The sea is warmest in July and August, but keep in mind that these summer months can get extremely busy – several locals told us they avoid the coast then because of the crowds.
Hiking in the north is best from late spring to early autumn, when trails are clear and the weather is warm. Winter offers a completely different vibe, with snow in the mountains perfect for skiing, while the south stays mild and quiet.
We went at the beginning of May and loved it. It was already hot in the south, everything was green, and the beaches were almost empty.
We even went for a swim – the water was still freezing, but having whole stretches of coast to ourselves was amazing!
Rental Car or Public Transport?
You can travel through Albania by bus or minibus (called furgons), and it’s definitely the cheapest option.
However, public transport schedules can be irregular, routes are limited, and you often need to plan your days around when and where they run. That means less flexibility, especially if you want to visit smaller towns, beaches, or remote spots.
For us, there was no other option than renting a car. We love the freedom of deciding where to go and when, without having to check any schedules.
We booked ours through DiscoverCars, which turned out to be super easy and convenient.
The site compares offers from international and local companies, and we quickly found a great deal with a local provider at Tirana Airport.
Driving in Albania also wasn’t as crazy as we’d heard – pretty much the same as in other Southern European countries if you’re used to that.
Check out: Renting a Car in Albania – The Ultimate Guide
12-Day Road Trip Itinerary Through South Albania
Now here’s exactly how we spent our 12 days exploring the south of Albania – with a mix of sightseeing, beach time, and a few spontaneous stops along the way.
Day 1: Tirana – Gjirokaster
Distance: 225 km, 3 hr 20 min by car 🚗
Where to stay: Kerculla Resort 🏨
On our first day, we landed in Tirana around 8:30 am. Instead of staying in the capital right away, we decided to explore other parts of the country first and save Tirana for the last few days before heading home.
After picking up our rental car at Tirana Airport, we set off for Gjirokaster. The drive took a little over three hours and was the longest stretch of our trip.
On the way, we passed through some small towns and nice countryside, which already gave us a good feeling for southern Albania.
By the time we got to Gjirokaster, it was already noon. We were pretty tired from waking up in the middle of the night and the long drive, so we spent the rest of the day chilling at our hotel, Kerculla Resort, enjoying the pool and having dinner in the evening.
We still had a full day ahead to explore Gjirokaster properly, and we wanted to be well-rested to make the most of it!
Day 2: Gjirokaster
We started the second day with breakfast at the hotel, then headed straight to our first stop in the so-called “City of Stone”: Gjirokaster Castle.
The castle sits above the city, offering amazing views over the old town and the Drino Valley. Inside, you can wander through its huge courtyards, explore old military tunnels, and see the fascinating museum displays.
From there, we made our way down to the Old Bazaar, a charming area filled with little shops selling souvenirs, antiques, and local crafts. It’s also a great place to grab a coffee and just watch the world go by.
We also visited two of the city’s most famous Ottoman houses – Skenduli House and Zekate House.
Both are incredibly well-preserved, with original furniture, wooden ceilings, and unique architectural details that give you a glimpse into how wealthy families lived here centuries ago.
You can explore Gjirokaster on your own, but to really understand the history and stories behind the sights, I recommend taking a guided walking tour.
Check out: Explore Gjirokaster – Things to See & Do in One Day
Day 3: Gjirokaster – Blue Eye – Ksamil
Distance: 72 km, 1 hr 50 min by car 🚗
Where to stay: Lans Hotel 🏨
After breakfast, we left Gjirokaster and headed further south toward Ksamil. But before reaching Ksamil, we made a stop at the famous Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter).
It takes about 50 minutes by car from Gjirokaster and is conveniently located roughly halfway on the way to Ksamil.
The Blue Eye is a stunning natural spring with crystal-clear, bright blue water bubbling up from deep underground. It’s famous for its incredible colors, and the constant flow and spiraling of the water give it a slightly otherworldly feel.
Parking costs about ALL 300 (around $4) for a few hours, and from the parking lot, it’s roughly a 20 to 25-minute walk to the spring.
You can also rent electric scooters or take the shuttle (a little road train), but we decided to walk since it wasn’t too hot and the path is nice and paved.
Plan to spend at least three hours here if you want to really enjoy the scenery, take photos, and maybe have a little rest. We stopped at the small café/restaurant nearby for a light lunch before heading back to the parking lot.
After about an hour’s drive, we arrived in Ksamil and checked into the Lans Hotel. We spent the afternoon relaxing by the pool before heading out for an early dinner at Bar Restaurant Vila – which I can highly recommend!
Day 4: Ksamil & Butrint National Park
On the fourth day of our 12-day road trip through South Albania, we started the morning at Butrint National Park, then spent the rest of the day exploring Ksamil and its beautiful beaches.
Butrint is a fascinating UNESCO World Heritage Site where nature and history come together. The park is full of ancient ruins — think old temples, an impressive amphitheater, and city walls dating back thousands of years.
It’s just about 4 to 5 kilometers (around a 10-minute drive) from the center of Ksamil – super easy to reach by car, taxi, or even bike if you’re up for it!
Check out: Butrint National Park – Complete Guide For Visitors
After soaking in the history, we headed back to Ksamil to enjoy its beaches. With crystal-clear waters and soft sand, Ksamil is one of the most popular seaside spots in Southern Albania.
We spent some time at the lively Ksamil Beach as well as Pulebardha Beach — two of the most famous but also busiest beaches in the area.
Because we visited at the beginning of May, there weren’t too many people, but especially in summer, Ksamil is a hot spot, so expect lots of crowds.
There are plenty of clubs, bars, and restaurants around, so if you’re looking for a peaceful, undeveloped beach, this isn’t the place. We actually preferred some of the other beaches in South Albania.
Day 5: Ksamil – Porto Palermo Castle – Himara
Distance: 67 km, 1 hr 45 min by car 🚗
Where to stay: Rea Boutique Hotel 🏨
After two nights, we left Ksamil after breakfast and headed north along the stunning Albanian Riviera toward Himara.
Along the way, we made a quick stop at Porto Palermo Castle, a fortress perched on a small peninsula with incredible views of the Ionian Sea.
The castle dates back to the Ottoman era, and walking along its walls lets you soak up the history while enjoying breathtaking views.
Right next to the castle, there’s also a beautiful beach — a great place to take a quick swim if you want.
After exploring Porto Palermo, we continued our drive to Himara, a charming coastal town known for its relaxed vibe and beautiful beaches.
Himara’s old town has narrow streets lined with traditional houses, small cafés, and local shops — a nice contrast to the busier Ksamil.
We checked into our hotel, Rea Boutique Hotel, then headed out for lunch at Himara’28, a restaurant right on the beach promenade. After lunch, we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing at the beach right in Himara.
For dinner, we went to Merkur Merkuri — a place we loved so much that we ended up returning both evenings during our stay.
Check out: An Unforgettable Stay at Rea Boutique Hotel (Review)
Day 6: Beach Day!
Around Himara, there are plenty of amazing beaches ranging from quiet, non-organized spots to organized ones with taverns and sunbeds.
We spent the day at Llaman Beach, which is an organized beach with sunbeds — but since the season hadn’t started yet, it was peaceful and only a few others were there. We just laid our towels on the sand and relaxed all day.
Other great beaches to check out are Gjipe Beach, a quiet, undeveloped gem reached by a short hike, and Drymades Beach, which has a few taverns but still feels pretty chill and natural.
Day 7: Himara – Dhermi – Vlora
Distance: 66 km, 1 hr 20 min by car 🚗
Where to stay: Nobus Hotel & Spa 🏨
Our next stop during our 12 days in Albania was Vlora, but before reaching there from Himara, we planned a stop in Dhermi.
It’s a laid-back village famous for its clear waters and stunning beaches. One highlight is the church on the hill, which offers incredible views over the coastline and sea – definitely worth the short hike.
We also wandered through the old town, which was very quiet and peaceful, but that was probably because the main season hadn’t started yet.
We continued on to Vlora and spent the afternoon chilling by the pool at our hotel.
Sadly, our stay wasn’t the best, so I wouldn’t recommend that place. Instead, I suggest Nobus Hotel & Spa, which was on our favorites list and comes highly recommended.
Day 8: Vlora
On day eight, we spent the whole day exploring Vlora — a city that honestly surprised me in a great way. Vlora has a nice mix of history, culture, and seaside charm that makes it worth a good look.
We started exploring the Old Town, a lively area full of cafés, shops, and interesting spots. Our favorite was Komiteti Bar, located inside a museum. It’s a lovely place with a beautiful courtyard, a unique atmosphere, and refreshing drinks.
Vlora has plenty of history to discover. We visited the Independence Monument, which marks the spot where Albania declared its independence and gives a good sense of the country’s past.
Not far from there is the Muradie Mosque, an old building with beautiful Ottoman-style architecture and a quiet courtyard.
There’s also Kanina Castle by the sea, which offers great views of the bay and a glimpse of Vlora’s strategic importance over the centuries.
Plus, the city’s promenade is perfect for a walk along the water, with plenty of cafés and places to stop for a coffee or some fresh food.
Day 9: Vlora – Berat
Distance: 105 km, 1 hr 45 min by car 🚗
Where to stay: Portik Hotel 🏨
We left Vlora early in the morning and took the 1-hour 45-minute drive to Berat, also known as the “City of a Thousand Windows”.
Since we only had one night there, we didn’t waste any time, and after we checked into our place for the night, we started exploring right away.
We started by hiking up to Berat Castle. The views from up there are amazing, and wandering around the old fortress shows you the city’s long history.
For lunch, we stopped at Home Taste, a traditional restaurant with tasty Albanian dishes.
After that, we spent the rest of the day exploring the charming Old Town (Kala) with its narrow streets and the famous white Ottoman-style houses stacked on the hillsides.
For dinner, we went back to Portik Hotel and ended the evening with delicious, super affordable food and drinks on their rooftop terrace overlooking the Old Town.
Day 10: Berat – Tirana
Distance: 100 km, 1 hr 50 min by car 🚗
Where to stay: Xheko Imperial Luxury Hotel & Spa 🏨
After Berat, it was time to go back to the city we landed in and our last stop before heading home: The capital, Tirana.
Tirana wasn’t even that high on our list at first, but we decided to spend two nights there – and I’m so glad we did. Honestly, I was positively surprised by how many awesome things there are to do in Tirana!
Our first stop was Skanderbeg Square, the lively heart of Tirana, surrounded by important landmarks like the National Historical Museum and the Et’hem Bey Mosque.
Then we visited Bunk’Art 2, a fascinating museum inside a former Cold War bunker that shows Albania’s communist history in a really engaging way.
Other highlights included Hana Corner Café, a perfect spot for coffee and people-watching. We also checked out Tanner’s Bridge, a historic Ottoman-era stone bridge, and Tirana Castle, a small fortress area with cozy streets full of cafés and shops.
After exploring Tirana all day and clocking in 20,000 steps, we headed back to Xheko Imperial Hotel to unwind.
I absolutely loved our stay – the rooms were breathtaking, the spa was gorgeous, and the service was impeccable. I truly wished we had more than just two nights there!
Check out:
Xheko Imperial – A Royal Stay in Tirana (Review)
Top 10 Best Things to do in Tirana For First-Timers
Day 11: Tirana & Kruja
Distance: 33 km, 45 minutes by car 🚗
Day 11 was our last full day in Albania, so we took a day trip to Kruja and then spent the rest of the time strolling around Tirana again.
Kruja, often called “The City Beyond the Sky”, sits high on a rocky hill offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. It’s just a 40–45-minute drive from Tirana, depending on the traffic.
Kruja is rich with history and famous as the hometown of Albania’s national hero, Skanderbeg. Its lively old bazaar is the perfect place to explore winding streets packed with handmade crafts and local goodies.
Though I loved wandering through the bazaar and checking all the products offered there, I found the shouting of the dealers trying to sell their wares a bit overwhelming at times.
We also visited Kruja Castle, which watches over the city and houses the Skanderbeg Museum — a must-see if you’re curious about Albania’s past.
Back in Tirana, we stopped by Hana Corner Café again and then wandered the streets, checking out local shops and boutiques for some shopping.
Check out: Visiting Kruja as a Day Trip From Tirana
Day 12: Tirana & Departure
Unfortunately, our flight was in the morning, so we didn’t do much besides having breakfast before heading to the airport.
If you have more time, definitely take the chance to explore more of Tirana — I’m sure there’s still plenty to discover!
Our Road Trip Map Through South Albania
The map below shows all the stops I mentioned and will hopefully help you plan your perfect 12-day itinerary through South Albania.
As you can see, Albania has so much to offer, and fitting it all into just 12 days was a challenge — and we didn’t even explore the whole country!
For me, Albania is definitely an underrated destination, and I’m sure I’ll be back at least once more to discover the North. But for now, I hope this blog post helps you plan your perfect 12-day adventure in Albania!
Check out:
Renting a Car in Albania – The Ultimate Guide
Top 10 Best Things to do in Tirana For First-Timers
Visiting Kruja as a Day Trip From Tirana
Xheko Imperial – A Royal Stay in Tirana (Review)
Explore Gjirokaster – Things to See & Do in One Day
Butrint National Park – Complete Guide For Visitors
An Unforgettable Stay at Rea Boutique Hotel (Review)
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Do you want to travel like me?
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Flights: I prefer using CheapOair to book flights. I often search for “Anywhere” to uncover the best flight deals!
Accommodation: Booking.com is my favorite site to find some great hotel deals.
Travel Insurance: There are many reasons why travel insurance is important and I never travel without one. I use the simple and flexible one from SafetyWing that protects me against unforeseen events.
Tours: I love taking tours to explore destinations like a local. My favorite website to book them in advance is GetYourGuide.
Camera Gear: I use a Nikon D5300 camera with an 18-105 mm and a 10-20 mm wide-angle lens to take my photos.
